{{start}}

Designed by Lefty Kreh in the 50's this fly or class of fly has stood the test of time. In terms of popularity with salt water fly fisher folk it probably runs second only to the Clouser Minnow. The Deceiver was designed to be easily tied in a range of sizes and in a range of colours and consequently it has applications across a range of fisheries. The only change I have made to the recipe is to include a foundation of buck tail under the tail hackles and reduce the tail hackles from 6-8 to 2-4. I also add a couple of strands of highlight material tied in along the side of the fly and sometimes I leave off the throat. I don't often see mention of weight in deceiver patterns but I like to make sure there is a little weight toward the front of the hook so that the deceiver swims head down.

Materials

Throat -  A few strands of red or pink crystal flash or bucktail  tied under the collar Head - Build up a uniform head of thread Eyes - Thread head and holographic eyes, dolls eyes, bead chain or just paint them on.

Process

A	Wrap the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook. Understanding hooks Select a small bunch of buck tail and tie it in at the bend of the hook with the tips extending as a tail behind the hook. The tail should extend a distance equal to 2 times the length of a hook shank on a standard 34007 hook. If your using a shorter style hook this distance may be equal to 3 times the length of that hook shank and if your using a longer shank hook this distance may be only 1.5 times the length of that hook shank.

B	To complete the tail of the fly select two matching hackle feathers and tie them in with the curve facing inward on one side of the hook extending the length of the buck tail. Wet fly hackles Then select two matching hackle feathers that curve the opposite direction and tie them in with the curve facing inward on one the other side of the hook. Tie in a couple of strands of highlight material on each side of the tail as long as the tail. Wind the thread 1/3 of the way back to the eye of the hook in touching turns.

C	The body of the fly can be made up of thread wrapped along the hook (as in the original), dubbed or wrapped body material, or as I prefer a combination of thread and bucktail. Select several quite small bunches of bucktail and tie them in around the hook shank with the tips extending uniformly around the hook shank and behind the fly a distance equal to two standard hook shanks. Wind the thread 3/4 of the way back toward the eye of the hook in touching turns.

D	Select several quite small bunches of bucktail and tie them in distributing them evenly around the hook to form a uniform collar with tips extending backward about 1/2 the distance of the tail. Select a small bunch of contrasting bucktail and tie it in on top of the hook shank with the tips extending on the top of the fly to represent the back of a bait fish. Tie in a few strands of red or pink crystal flash or bucktail as a throat under the fly with the tips just long enough to touch the point of the hook. If your tying in bead chain or dumbbell eyes tie them in now just behind the eye of the hook. Tying in dumbbell eyes Build up a neat head of thread.

E	If you haven't tied in bead chain or dumbbell eyes you may want to apply holographic or dolls eyes on both side of the head about half way along the  remaining 1/4 of the hook shank. Eyes for flies The final step is to apply a little 5 minute epoxy or soft coat to the head.

{{end}}