Other species
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{{+1}}Bendback{{-1}}
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The bendback is very effective fly in locations that contain a lot of structural hazards such as oyster racks, mangroves, tree stumps and rock bars. The design of the fly reduces the propensity of the fly to snag. Choose the colours of your materials so that your version mimics local bait fish.{{end}}
{{+1}}Silver surfer – silver straggle fritz bugger{{-1}}
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I was ripping the black tailed version of this fly through the chop with some success when my boat partner asked what fly is that 'silver surfer'. I explained to him that it was just a woolly bugger variant tied with a black tail and silver UV straggle fritz. I tried to give it a real name such as 'silver woolly bugger' but unfortunately 'silver surfer has stuck.{{end}}
{{+1}}Bread fly – wet{{-1}}
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All sorts of estuary fish respond to bread berley and will take a sinking bread fly suspended or slowly sinking through the feeding zone.{{end}}
{{+1}}Tea tree beetle – variant 2{{-1}}
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Both floating and wet beetles (including drowned terrestrials beetles and aquatic beetles) should be fished in the current with as little line drag as possible or with a very short twitching action. A nondescript well tied beetle pattern if presented in the right way when fish have beetles on their menu, more often than not, will be accepted by fish.{{end}}
{{+1}}Tea tree beetle – variant 1{{-1}}
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One species that is a popular food source for trout is the tea tree beetle. This representation is tied in shades of black and brown colours that have stood the test of time. Many of the recipes you see use brown raffia as the wing case. I don't like raffia as a fly tying material and have substituted a hackle from the back of the ring neck pheasant. Its a similar colour to many of the recipes that have come before mine but its much more durable than the raffia.{{end}}
{{+1}}Dunkeld – Chatto’s fuzzeled variant{{-1}}
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The Dunkeld is certainly one of my top 5 middle dropper flies for lock style fly fishing. Until 18 months ago I was using a version of the Dunkeld that had a hackle Palmered along the body as in the original. At that time I was experimenting with "fuzzeled" bodies an an alternative to bodies with a Palmered hackle and applied that technique to this fly with immediate success.{{end}}
{{+1}}Mark II woolly bugger{{-1}}
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The MK 2 woolly buggers evolved from standard black and olive woolly buggers as a fly that would imitate an American frog that had bright red between its hind legs. The red is a great trigger point and I find the MK2 as a great generalist search pattern. In southern climes the hot spot is tied in any of the 'roe' colours and is widely accepted as one of the best early season search pattens.{{end}}
{{+1}}Skirted woolly bugger – Chatto’s original{{-1}}
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Whilst not tied to imitate any natural food source it's a very buggy looking fly with heaps of trigger points including the marabou tail, the soft body and front hackles as well a the skit itself. In particular I like to incorporate blood red or orange skirts which are suggestive in the case of a red skirt as bleeding from around the base of the tail or the claws depending on what the fly is taken as or in the case of an orange skirt as a fish roe.{{end}}
{{+1}}Superhair rattler{{-1}}
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This is a good alternative to the zonker rattler particularly for estuary species. It lends itself to fishing on a fast sink line and a jerky active retrieve with plenty of stops. It's also a good idea to count the fly down so that you can identify what depth they are holding at.{{end}}
{{+1}}Bass vampire{{-1}}
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The fly is particularly useful in larger water and can be fished quite deep. For inactive fish John recommends a slow retrieve and even pauses of up to 15 seconds. If fish are active a range of faster stripping actions will yield success. Whilst the black and purple Vampire gets the most press its worth following John's lead and experimenting with different colours for different fisheries.{{end}}