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I designed my original pregnant prawn in 2011. That fly is tied on a #2 hook and is a corker of a fly for targeting bream, whiting and flathead.

This is the biggest pregnant prawn fly that I tie and is one of my goto flies here in Central Queensland when targeting barramundi in estuary and harbor waters. It's not unusual to hook up on queenfish, travally, flathead or other species that eat prawns.

This is a 10 cm fly is a little thicker than a lead pencil, and is tied on a #3/0 hook.

Fished with a stop start retrieve around structure this fly looks very much like a prawn that is in row carrying eggs.

Because of the lead shot it sinks well and with the aid of the wing which represents an extended carapace of the prawn it swims hook point up resisting snagging up on drowned timber or bottom structure such as detritus matter, shells or stones, and when it is jumped along the bottom it has the added benefit of kicking up a little sand or mud in much the same way as the natural.

Materials

Process

A	Have a look at this link for an easy way to add lead shot to a hook shank.

Tying in the sievs and mouth parts

D	Double up the strands of over-locking thread twice and tie the 32 strands of overlocking thread in behind the lead shot with the loose ends extending past the bend of the hook. When trimmed back these will represent the sieves and mouth parts of the prawn.

Tying in the body of the prawn

E	Cut a 20 cm length of about 20 strands of flash blend off the shank.

F	Because your going to fold each layer of flash blend back over itself it's important to tease the fibers out at the end that was cut off the hank so when it's tied in and doubled over the tips will all meld together.

G	Tie the flash blend in on top of the hook shank with half the total length of the flash blend facing forward over the front of the hook and the other half facing over the back of the fly like a tail.

H	Fold the forward facing strands of flash blend back over the rear facing strands of flash blend and lock that in position with several firm wraps of thread and a double hitch of thread to ensure that the flash blend is secure. Multiple hitches done by hand .

Tying in the legs

I	Take a full length of rubber legs material and trim it into three similar length sections. This will be a little long for the finished legs but it's much easier to tie them in long and trip them later. Tie the rubber legs in as a clump, with half of each of the three strands facing out each side of the fly, using a single tight figure of eight wrap of thread and a double hitch of thread to ensure that the legs are secure.

Tying in the eyes

J	Take a set of crustacean eyes and tie them in behind the split shot with with the eye stalks angled at about 45 degrees toward the point of the hook, using multiple tight figure of eight wrap of thread and a double hitch of thread to ensure that the eyes secure. I also put a drop of super glue on top of the tie in of the eyes of the fly at this stage.

Tying in the carapace of the prawn

K	Cut a 25 cm length of about 20 strands of super hair off the shank. Take the thread forward to half way between the lead shot and the eye of the hook. Using tight wraps of thread tie the super hair in on top of the hook shank with 10 cm of the total length of super hair laying between the eyes and facing behind the fly and the balance facing forward over the front of the fly. Take the thread under the forward facing super hair and lock that in position with a couple of double hitch of thread to ensure that the first half of the carapace is secure.

L	Cut the forward facing super hair of about the with of the eye of the hook in front of the eye of the hook. Position that on top of the first half of the carapace.

M	Tie the second half of the super hair in on top of the first half of the super hair with tight wraps of thread. Take the thread forward and under the forward facing super hair and whip finish behind the eye of the fly. Trim away the excess thread. The second layer of super hair should be a bit long at this stage so use the excess length to lock the body and the carapace down on top of the vice.

Locking in all the materials with epoxy

N	Trim away the excess thread. Mix up a small amount of 5 minute epoxy and using a tooth pick apply that in the area between the split shot and the eye of the hook. Working with epoxy Rotate the fly until the epoxy completely goes off.

Trimming the carapace and the legs

O	Trim the second bunch of rear facing superhair back the the same length of the first bunch of superhair. Trim the tips of the superhair so that the rear facing end of the carapace has a V finish rather than a square finish. Trim the legs all to a about the length of one and a half times the gape of the hook.

Trimming the sieves and mouth parts.

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