BBH fuzzy nymph

 

If your going to fish any faster flowing water or if you are going to fish running or still water where you may want your fly to get down then Bead Head or Cone Head nymphs are very useful. Beads and Cones can be made of various materials with tungsten being the heaviest. Whilst this nymph is not tied to represent the nymphal (sub imago or pupa) stage of any specific insect it is a good “buggy” looking fly and readily accepted by trout. I have tied and successfully fished this fly in a number of colours but all but the black version have been superseded by other flies that seem to do the job better.

This is the lightest of my bead heads and has its place in both river and still water environments. In rivers they can be fished in the current with as little line drag as possible, can be retrieved at various speeds or can be fished on the drop or through the lift in slower water and pools. In still water that can be fished as an anchor fly in a team or alone.

General form and colour together with presentation and how you fish them will help you fool the fish into thinking that there something that's on their shopping list.

Materials

 

Hook Weight Thread Tail Rib Additional Weight Body & thorax Wing casing
Size 8 to 16 long shank (Tiemco 3761 SPL or Knapek wet) Brass bead To suit body Squirrel tail, feather barbules or substitute Fine wire Lead wire if required Dubbing or peacock herl Rubber shrimp back, raffia or feather slips

Process for black BH fuzzy nymph

 

A
  1. Most beads have a large opening at one end and a smaller opening at the other.
  2. Slide a copper tungsten bead over the point of the hook small opening first and position it behind the eye of the hook.
  3. Wind the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook.
  4. If your going to add extra weight do that know.
  5. Tie in a tail equal 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the hook shank. Resist the temptation to make the tail too bulky and too long.
  6. Tie in a length of silver wire.

 

B
  1. Dub on a body starting at almost nothing and gradually increasing in width almost up to the bead. I like to use  a mix of 90% seals fur and 10% UV peacock dubbing.

 

C
  1. Wind the wire ribbing along the dubbed body of the fly forming 4 or 5 segments.
  2. Tie the copper wire off behind the bead and break off the excess wire.
  3. Return the thread to the half way position.

 

D
  1. Tie a length of scud back  in on top of the hook shank at the half way position for use as the wing casing.

 

E
  1. Using the same dubbing mix dub on a thorax between where the wing casing is tied in and the back of the bead.
  2. Pull the scud back wing casing material forward to form the wing casing and lock the wing case into position with several wraps of thread directly behind the bead head.
  3. Take a piece of Velcro and tease out some of the dubbing from the thorax to represent legs.
    Trim the extra scud back.
  4. Whip finish behind the bead head, trim the thread and varnish the thread behind the bead and the bead itself. If you don't varnish the bead it will tarnish quite quickly.