My bass, perch & saratoga fly box

I have lumped the flies that I prefer for Australian Native fish into one group as by in large the species I target are all structure oriented. They tend to frequent areas with structure such as weed, sunken logs, rock bars, under cut banks, holes and drop offs etc. and generally react in much the same way.

 

Quicklinks

 

I have divided my bass EP and perch flies into 3 classes » Dry flies, Droppers, Wet flies,

 
 
 

Dry flies 

If there is a secret to bass fly fishing, and a useful dry fly technique for other native fish species, its got to be putting your fly in the zone and keeping it there for as long as you can. With dry flies that’s fairly easy. Cast it right into the snags or above the margins of the weed beds and hold it there without drag for as long as you can. If nothing happens then just give the fly a little wiggle so that it creates rings on the surface of the water and wait again. Repeat this process a few times until your satisfied that the structure you are covering doesn’t hold an interested fish or until the fly is out of the zone. If fishing static doesn’t work than a great alternative is to position yourself so that you can fish along the structure and then strip the dry flies in using a variety of speeds twitches and pauses.

Bass foam hopper

When I converted my trout foam hopper for use as a bass and tropical fly fishing I added a sparkle chenille under-body and grossed it up dramatically so that it would withstand the aggressive nature of fish like Australian bass and tropical species such as mangrove jack.

Booby beetle – Chatto’s original

Boobies are a fantastic bass fly when fished on the surface but occasionally they hang so low in the water they get a bit hard for me to see. To overcome that when seeing the fly is necessary I added a back of 2mm closed cell foam – works like a dream. This is undoubtedly my favorite bass fly.

Booby – traditional booby

With the tow point at the tip of the 90 degree stem any forward movement of the fly raises the fly up a little and a steady forward movement of the fly creates a very natural wake. If just twitched it creates circles reminiscent of a struggling terrestrial insect.

Foam cicada – Chatto’s ‘black prince’

This fly sits well into the surface film like the natural and has a very realistic profile when viewed from below. I have made it smaller than the natural on purpose as flies tied as big as the natural are frustratingly cumbersome to cast on #8 weight outfits that are my preference of the target species mentioned above. The fly lands with a good audible fish attracting ‘plop’ and with its outstretched wings that are only about half as long as the natural still wiggle with the slightest movement in a very enticing way.

Popper – poly head

If I could only carry one surface fly when fishing for Bass, Yellow belly and other native species my black Poll-Head-Popper would be it. They a definite “boof”as the fly lands and that is often enough to induce a strike.

Wiggle frog – Chatto’s original

You can fish this fly on an intermediate or faster sinking line but my preference is to fish it on a floating line so that it swims just below the surface. On a floating line the best technique for fishing the fly is to give it one or two short strips and then rest it for a moment whilst it comes back to the surface. Rest it there for a few more seconds and then repeat the process.

 

Droppers 

Droppers are lengths of tippet tied off the main leader to facilitate incorporating additional flies in the cast.

They are common practice in a ‘loch style’ leader used for fishing for trout with a middle and or top dropper often being used to incorporate one or more attractor flies or additional flies to ‘match the hatch’ or just to give the target fish a choice of flies.

I also sometimes use a single dropper on the leader set up I use for my #8, weight outfits when I am fishing the estuaries for bream, flathead and the like and also when I am fishing for Australian native species such as bass, saratoga, tarpon or the various perch when fishing in relatively snag free water.

 

Wet flies 

For wet flies its best to either find the fish on a sounder or have an educated guess where the fish are and then to dredge the fly through that zone at various speeds – locking into the speed and depth that works. In my experience if your not hooking up to structure occasionally your not in the hunt.

Booby

One of the best search flies in slow moving or still deeper water using a sinking line. If fishing from a fixed position cast it out, let the line sink to the desired depth, and then retrieve the line using a constant stripping motion, a pumping retrieve or a combination of both. The stripping speed should be varied.

Chatto’s estuary fly

This fly has now accounted for bream, flathead, whiting, trevally, mullet, tailor, flounder, bass and trout. I expect it will be attractive to many other species also. Native fresh water Bass are a favourite of mine and if I could only carry one type of sinking fly to target then with the Black Estuary/Bass fly would be it.

Chatto’s fizzer

This fly swims well and the propeller at the front adds an element of action that fish find enticing. You can tie this fly in any colour combination to mimic the colour of some of the more popular lure colours that your mates that fish the “dark side” use so successfully.

Destroyer – Chatto’s variant

My variant does not include the shroud of mara wool tips around the zonker tail. I have left that off because for me the currents around the body of the fly produce more movement in the tail when it is not shrouded. I like hot spots on flies and accordingly have added a hot spot of red Wapsi palmer chenille under the tail. For my deeper water flies, as many other users have done, I use bead chain eyes rather than the unweighted plastic chain eyes as on the original.