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I had the pleasure of bass fishing with Peter Morse a couple of years ago and he introduced me to the concept of "fuzzeling" which I understand was developed between Muz Wilson and himself. It's dead simple and involves creating a dubbed body and then picking out the dubbing fibres with a strip of Velcro. The finished fly has a sort of "halo" of loose fibres around the fuzzeled part of the fly and this can be very effective. I tie two versions. The first has no hackle and the second incorporates a soft hackle just behind the bead if a bead is incorporated in the tie but otherwise behind the eye of the hook. Both work well in different situations.

If  your going to fish any faster flowing water or if you are going to fish running or still water where you may want your fly to get down then a bead head version is also very useful.

Materials

Process

A	If your going to add a bead head do it first and then for the rest of the instructions treat "behind the eye of the hook" as "behind the bead head". Beads as weight or eyes on a fly Most beads have a large opening at one end and a smaller opening at the other. Slide a  bead over the point of the hook small opening first and position it behind the eye of the hook. Wind the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook. If your going to add extra weight do that now. I use fuzzel buggers exclusively as point flies and find that for size #10 that 6 wraps of .015 lead wire sinks the fly enough to ensure that my leader is straight and I'm in touch with my full team of flies Options for adding weight toa fly Tie in a woolly bugger type tails 1.5 times as long as the hook. Resist the temptation to make the tail too bulky or too short. Woolly bugger tails Tie in a length of ribbing wire.

B	Using the single strand dubbing method dub on a cigar shaped body almost up to the bead. I like to use  a mix of 80% seals fur and 20% UV dubbing. Single strand dubbing

C	Wind the wire ribbing along the dubbed body of the fly forming 5 or 6 segments. Body segments on flies Tie the copper wire off behind the bead and break off the excess wire. Take a piece of Velcro and tease out (i.e. fuzzel) some of the dubbing from the body to represent legs. If your adding a front hackle do that now. Tie a hackle in by the tip. Selection of the hackle is often made difficult by what is available. I have used an olive guinea foul hackle here but you may need to settle for a hen hackle, a partridge hackle etc. Quicklink Quicklink Whip finish behind the bead head, trim the thread and varnish the thread behind the bead and the bead itself. If you don't varnish the bead some will tarnish quite quickly.

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