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This is a great fly to rip through the water in front of Tailor, Australian Salmon, Tarpon and any other fish that is a predator of small fish.

The combination of the resin head and the body materials create a fly that is translucent and a very effective imitation of many small thin fish that that are targeted by bigger fish. This fly is much easier to tie than a candy and in my view a better fly overall.

The key to fishing this fly is to match the length of the natural and the colour of its back with the colour of the Super Hair used for the back of the fly and then to imitate it's fleeing actions of the naturals. Fast retrieves are a good starting point but its worth trying jerky retrieves and even just letting the fly sink like a stunned bait fish. I often fish a team of two of these flies with the second fly being on a a 30cm dropper 1 meter above the point fly and find that pelagics that wont fire up for one fly will often become active when two flies are pulled past them. I have even managed a couple of doubles of 50cm Tarpon using this technique ... now that is fun.

Materials

Process

A	The squidgy resin head is in fact a soft plastic hook system and it comes with a soft plastic retainer moulded into the head and sitting on top of the hook shank just behind the head.

B	Using a pair of pliers worry the retainer described above off. Managing synthetic fibres

C	Wind the thread from behind the head to about 1/3 down the exposed hook shank and then half way back toward the moulded head. Invert the hook in the vice and tie in a clump of coloured super hair so that it forms the first part of the back and tail of the fly with the super hair extending between 2.5 to 3 times as long as the hook behind the bend of the hook. Whatever length you make the tail in this step will determine the maximum length of the finished fly.

D	Tie in white super hair so that it forms the first part of the belly of the fly with the super hair extending behind the bend of the hook the same distance as the coloured super hair in the step above. You will find it better to build the belly up with small clumps of super hair rather than in just one clump to ensure that it properly locked in. You can tie super hair in either in individual clumps as shown in this photo or if the super hair is long enough you can divide it on the thread pull that down using the thread to make sure it's exactly wher you want it to be and can lock it into position. In either case make sure that you lock it in using tight wraps of thread.

E	When building up the under-body of the fly it helps if you make sure that equal amounts of the coloured and the white super hair are either sides of the bend of the hook.

F	The finished under-body should be roughly as deep as the lower edge of the resin head and all the materials should be at least as long as the coloured super hair tied in in step C above.

G	Tie in strands of sparkle flash behind the resin head so that there are 2 or 3 strands either side of the bend of the hook and they extend at least as far as the coloured super hair tied in in step C above.

H	Rotate the hook right way up. You should now have an under-body tied directly under the hook shank that is roughly as deep as the bottom edge of the resin head and with all the material extending behind the fly creating a body and tail.

I	Tie two strands of sparkle flash along each side of the fly to represent to represent bleeding from the gills of the natural.

J	Trim the red sparkle flash that represents bleeding from the gills down so that the bleed is about the same length as the hook.

K	Tie the thread off behind the moulded eye and trim the excess. Mix up a small amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply that around the collar area where all the materials are tied in. Working with epoxy Rotate the fly until the epoxy goes off so as to evenly disperse the epoxy around the collar of the fly. The final step is to trim all of the body materials off to the same length creating a tail that is between 2.5 and 3 times as long as the hook.

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