Hackled gold ribbed hares ear

 

For a long time the Greenwells Glory was a fly that has been a staple in my dry fly box ... this fly has taken its place. It's essentially a hackled gold ribbed hares ear and has all the defining elements of a normal Greenwells Glory pattern except the primrose thread body of the original has been covered with a body of dubbed hares ear fur and the wing slip of starling or mallard primary feather has been dropped.

With those modifications on balance I think it fishes better all rounder fly than the Greenwells Glory.

It works equally well on running or still water and is a little more buoyant than the Greenwells Glory and is buoyant enough to support a small bead head nymph in a wet under dry team.

greenwells-2-j

Materials

Hook Thread Tail Rib Body Hackle
Hanak H130BL dry fly #12 Primrose yellow Furnace hackle barbules Hends oval tinsel KNR 1001 gold Fur from a dark hares ear Cock y bonddu

Process

A
  1. Starting at the 95% position wind the thread to the bend of the hook.
greenwells-2-a

B
  1. Tie in a tail of 6 to 8 furnace hackle barbules. The finished tail should be around as long as the shank of the hook.
  2. Finish with your thread at the 85% position.
greenwells-2-b

C
  1. Whilst winding the thread back down to the bend of the hook to form a thread under-body tie in a length of ribbing material along the top of the hook shank.
greenwells-2-c

D
  1. Lightly load the thread with hair that has been pinched off a relatively dark hares mask.
greenwells-2-d

E
  1. Wind the dubbing rope forward to the 75% position forming a cigar shaped body.
  2. Take a couple of half hitches of thread in front of the body just to make sure it's secure.
greenwells-2-e

F
  1. Wind the ribbing wire forward forming 4 or 5 segments along the body of the fly.
  2. Tie the ribbing off at the 75% position and trim away the excess.
greenwells-2-f

G
  1. Tie a hackle in barbules a little longer than the gape of the hook by the butt at the 75% position.
  2. The top/shiny side of the hackle should be facing forward so that when the hackle is wound forward the barbules will have a natural tendency to slope back. If the hackle were tied in with the dull side facing forward the barbules would have a tendency to face forward.
greenwells-2-g

H
  1. Wind the hackle forward to just behind the eye of the hook. This generally takes up to 6 full turns of the hackle.
  2. Wind the thread forward through the turns of hackle to just behind the eye of the hook.
  3. Tie the hackle off with a couple of firm wraps of thread.
  4. Trim the excess hackle butt away with a sharp blade.
greenwells-2-i

I
  1. With thumb and forefinger stroke the hackle barbules back out of the way and without encroaching on the hackles build up a neat thread head.
  2. Build up a neat thread head.
  3. Whip finish the head of the fly, trim the thread and varnish the head of the fly.
greenwells-2-j