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This fly is somewhat of a fusion of a traditional caddis pupa emerger and a squirmy wormy and it has earned a place in my fly box as a great middle or top dropper fly for both a loch style team and a river team.
It is certainly worth tying on in the early stages of a caddis hatch as the pupas are moving toward the surface or as the time approaches when caddis hatches have occurred on the previous couple of days.
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These are the materials you'll need. If you don't have the exact same materials substitute similar materials where necessary. Continue below . . .
As well as your fly tying tools you'll need:
Hook |
Thread |
Under-body |
Rib |
Back and tail |
Emerging wings |
Wing casing |
Thorax |
Tiemco 3769 |
Black 6/0 |
Pearl lurex - fine |
Medium copper wire |
Squirmy wormy |
Feather barbules |
Soft hackle barbules |
Soft hackle feather |
Process
A |
- Wind the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook and then 2/3 of the way back up the hook shank..
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B |
- Tie in a length of copper wire.
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C |
- Tie in a length of flat pearl lurex.
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D |
- Continue winding the thread back down to the bend of the hook locking the copper wire and the pearl lurex in on top of the shank at the same time.
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E |
- Wind the pearl lurex back up 2/3 of the way along the hook shank.
- Tie the lurex off with a couple of firm wraps of thread.
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F |
- Tie in a length of squirmy wormy material at the 2/3 position. Make sure you leave enough to leave a tail as long as the hook shank when its tied down. You can always trim a little off if it's too long but you can't add more if it's too short.
- I have used blood red squirmy wormy here but tan and olive are also good options.
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G |
- Hold the squirmy wormy material flat on top of the hook shank and wind the copper wire forward in soft turns to the 2/3 position forming 4 or 5 segments.
- The turns of the copper wire need to be strong enough to hold the squirmy wormy material position in position but not so tight that they weaken or cut the squirmy wormy material.
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H |
- Take two final wraps of the copper wire at the 2/3/ position and lock in with a couple of tight wraps of thread.
- Worry of the excess copper wire.
- Select two clumps of just 2 or 3 hackle fibers and tie them in at the 2/3 position one clump on each side of the fly and the tips extending back and above the body of the fly.I have used duck feather fibres but any other fairly stiff hackle fiber will suffice.
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I |
- Trim of the butt ends of the hackle fibers.
- Take a small bunch of feather fibers and tie them in at the 2/3 position as a beard angled down in front of the point of the hook. I have used Hungarian partridge fibers here but any other soft hackle fibers will do the job.
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J |
- Trim of the butt ends of the hackle fibers.
- Take a soft hackle feather with barbules about as long as the gape of the hook and tie that in by the butt at the 2/3 position with the curve of the barbules facing backward. Crow breast feather are my favorite back hackle fiber and I use them any time that a soft hackle is called for on a wet fly but other soft black hackles will also work.
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K |
- Wind the thread forward to just behind the eye of the hook.
- Wind the crow feather forward in tight touching turns taking care not to lock any barbule down from preceding turns of the hackle as you wind it forward.
- Tie the crow feather off just a little back from the eye of the hook..
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L |
- Trim of the butt ends of the crow feather away with a sharp blade.
- Build up a neat thread head.
- Whip finish the thread and varnish the thread head.
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