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Articulated baitfish – estuary version

Whilst not designed to represent any particular bait fish I have designed this fly to have a shape, form and function similar to many of the little fish that predators hunt.

This #2/0 estuary fly is 9 cm long and because it's unweighted it's relatively easy to cast. It's a great fly to use when targeting estuary species including but not limited to:

Bream (yellow tail, pikey and black bream)
Lutjanids (Mangrove Jack & Fingermark
Javelin fish (Barred Grunter and Silver Grunter)
Tarpon
Flathead (Dusky and Bartail)
Smaller trevally (including Giant Trevally and Golden Trevally)
Smaller queenfish

It can be used in a number of different ways including:

  • As a prospecting fly work the fly over and past where fish are holding or are expected to hold and retrieve at a range of jerky retrieves at various speed and with the occasional stop.
  • For sighted fish put in clean cast which is inside the fishers current swim path so when the fish sees the fly it will have to make a slight change of direction, instinctively taking it a little out of its comfort zone. The tendency of fish once they have made that change is to take the fly much quicker than they would had the fly been directly in their path. As soon as you think the fish is in range rip the fly in as fast as you can strip or roly poly. It's important to keep your line under control at all times as strikes are always hard and mostly followed by blistering runs and you have to be able to clear the stripped line and get the fight back on the reel as soon as possible.
  • It can also be used as a trailing fly for my articulated popper combination that I use to target predators in very shallow water or actually feeding on the surface.

The fly below is dressed in Brown Bomber colours but I also like it dressed in Qantas colours or natural colours of olive and shrimp..

ripper-a

Materials for trailing hook

Hook size Thread Body foundation
Mustard 34007 @#2/0 Big fly thread - black H2O slinky fiber - brown

 

Process

Right from the start it's important to get an understanding how much body materials you will need to achieve the desired thickness and density of the fly.

There are 2 bunches of H2O Slinky Fiber and two bunches of Steve Farrar's Flash Blend and an optional one or two bunches of Flashabou or Flash Blend to be tied in and it can be a bit of a learning curve getting the quantities right. The goal is to use just enough body materials to dress the fly without making the fly too thick. I suggest you start with bunches as thick as a match stick or tooth pick and then go up or down from that for successive flies.

Also, because your going to fold the Slinky Fiber and the Flash Blend over on themselves it's important to tease each bunch of Slinky Fiber and Flash Blend out at the end that was cut off the hank so when it's tied in and doubled over the tips will all meld together and you don't finish up with square ridges of Flash Blend, from where it was cut from the hank, in the middle of the fly.

A
  1. Place the hook firmly in the vice.
  2. Wind a bed of thread on the front 20% of the hook shank.
  3. Return the thread half way up that bed of thread.

ripper-a

B
  1. The size #2/0 hook that I am using is 3.75 cm in length so cut a 7.5 cm length of Slinky Fiber .
  2. Tie the Slinky Fibers in on top of the hook shank two soft wraps of thread.

ripper-b

C
  1. Massage the Slinky Fibers so that they are equally distributed around the hook shank.

ripper-c

D
  1. Build up a neat thread head.
  2. Whip finish the thread, trim away the excess thread and varnish the thread head.

ripper-d

 


 

The second part for building an articulated fly is to attach the articulated shank and to dress that to represent the thorax and head of the fly.

 

Materials for articulated head

Articulated shank Thread Structure guard (optional) Under-body extension Back Back flash (Brown Bomber only) Belly Belly flash (Brown Bomber only) Eyes
Fish Skull FS-GS-K20 20mm shank Uni big fly thread - black 50lb stiff monofilament H2O slinky fibre - brown Steve Farrar's flash blend - black Flashabou - black Steve Farrar's flash blend - orange Flashabou - gold Fish Scull Living Eyes Size 7 mm - ice colour

 

E
  1. Structure guards are optional on this fly and whilst I prefer to fish most of my flies without structure guards, because they swim better without them, i normally cay a few with structure guards for when I ma fishing in and behind mangroves.
  2. If your going to tie in a monofilament structure guard it's important to attach the articulated shank to the trailing hook with the front eye on the articulated shank facing up.
  3. Also at this stage it's important to make sure that the front and back eyes on the articulated shank are square to each other. More often than not you will need two pair of pliers to make a slight adjustment to ensure that.

ripper-e

F
  1. Cut about 6 cm of 50lb monofilament, fold it in half, and with a pair of pliers crimp the monofiliment so that it holds that shape.
  2. Invert the fly in the vice.

ripper-f

G
  1. Build up a a base of thread in the middle of the articulated shank.
  2. Tie the monofiliment to the articulated shank with firm wraps of thread.

ripper-g

H
  1. Fold the monofilament down onto the front of the articulated shank and lock it in place with firm wraps of thread all the way up to the eye of the articulated shank.
  2. Take the thread back down to the gap in the middle of the articulated and do a half hitch in the thread just to ensure nothing comes undone.
  3. Cut a 7.5cm length of Slinky Fiber.
  4. Tie the Slinky Fibres in on top of the articulated shank with two soft wraps of thread.

ripper-h

I
  1. Massage the Slinky Fibres so that they are equally distributed around the articulated shank.
  2. Lock the Slinky Fiber in with firm wraps of thread.
  3. Turn the fly back over the right way in the vice.

ripper-i

J
  1. Cut a 12 cm length of Flash Blend.
  2. Tease the Flash Blend out at the end that was cut off the hank so when it's tied in and doubled over the tips will all meld together and you don't finish up with square ridges of Flash Blend, from where it was cut from the hank, in the middle of the fly.
  3. Position the Flash Blend with the tips extending 3 cm facing backward and 9 cm facing forward.

ripper-k

 

K
  1. Lock the Flash Blend in position with tight wraps of thread.

ripper-l

L
  1. Fold the forward facing Flash Blend back over the rear facing Flash Blend.
  2. Lock that in position with firm wraps of thread.
  3. Take a couple of half hitches to make sure that nothing comes loose.
ripper-m

 

M
  1. If your adding flash to the back of the fly as in the Brown Bomber inspired version now is the time to do it.
  2. Cut a 12 cm length of black Flashabou
  3. Tease the Flashabou fibers out at the end that was cut off the hank so when it's tied in and doubled over the tips will all meld together and you don't finish up with square ridges of flash blend, from where it was cut from the hank, in the middle of the fly.
  4. Position the Flashabou with the tips extending 4.5 cm facing backward and 11.5cm facing forward.
  5. Lock it in position with a couple of tight wraps of thread.
  6. Fold the forward facing Flashabou back over the rear facing Flashabou.
  7. Lock that in position with firm wraps of thread and take a couple of half hitches to make sure that nothing comes loose.
ripper-o

N
  1. Rotate the fly in the vice.
  2. Cut a 12 cm length of gold Flashabou and a similar bunch of orange Flash Blend.
  3. Integrate the Flashabou and the Flash Blend together and tease the Flashabou and Flash Blend out at the end that was cut off the hank so when it's tied in and doubled over the tips will all meld together and you don't finish up with square ridges of flash blend, from where it was cut from the hank, in the middle of the fly.
  4. Position the Flashabou and Flash Blend with the tips extending 4.5 cm facing backward and 11.5cm facing forward.
  5. Lock it in position with a couple of tight wraps of thread.

ripper-r

O
  1. Fold the forward facing Flashabou and Flash Blend back over the rear facing Flashabou and Flash Blend.
  2. Lock that in position with firm wraps of thread and take a couple of half hitches to make sure that nothing comes loose.

ripper-s

P
  1. Take the fly out of the vice and stroke, comb or brush all the elements of the fly into their desired position.
  2. Reinsert the fly into the vice.
  3. I generally use an elastic band to hold the body components in place.

ripper-t

Q
  1. Place a stick on eye on each side of the head of the fly.
  2. Once the second eye is locked in position mix up a generous amount of epoxy and apply a coat of the epoxy over the head of the fly and as far back as the back of the two eyes.
  3. Rotate the fly in the vice until the epoxy had gone off.

ripper-u

R
  1. Do a final trim of the fly to finesse the body into a bait fish shape with an overall length of 9 cm.
  2. Bend the two structure guards into a position so that they are facing slightly backward in a V shape.
ripper-a

BIG FISH FLIES

One of the things I always promote is the importance of limiting the flies you carry in your fly boxes to just those flies that you are confident work for you, you understand when to use them and you know how to fish them.

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Chatto’s baitfish

I developed this fly to fish both the snaggy rock and coral waters but more recently have found a place for it when fishing the open blue waters and estuary waters of Central Queensland.

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Fishing for foragers – on fly and the dark side

We are very lucky around Gladstone in that we have a healthy population of Mangrove Jacks, Fingermark, Barred and Silver Grunter and Flathead in our local waters and all four of them are reseptive to both fly and lure presentations.

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Leader set up – 50lb with fastach connection and in-leader stinger

When I set up a leader for my night time barra rods I start by connecting a stinger hook & Fasthach clip to what will be the business end of my leader, then I spool spool off the amount of leader required and connect that to my the 30lb braided backing With an FG knot.

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Rule of twelfths

The rule of 12ths ... an easy way to know the approximate water depth at intervals of roughly 1 hour as the tide rises or falls.

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Just keeping you in the loop !

We don't get many days in Central Queensland when we get a break from persistent winds but when they come around it's nice to take advantage of then and target one of your favourite species on fly.

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Make a soft plastic … catch a barra

These 5 barra above are all over a meter and have been caught in Lake Awoonga over the last 5 weeks on soft plastics that I rigged up in my own very personal way on soft plastics I poured myself in moulds for top pour soft plastics that I finessed and made myself.

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Soft plastic hand pouring

Top pour hammer variant

Process:

In the example below I am making two 46g two layered soft plastics. So in this case that will take 92g of material. The bottom layer is deeper and will use about 60% of that and the top layer is only about 7mm thick so it will use only the remaining 40 % of material. For each colour I also add about 30g of extra of material to account for the material that will not pour out of the pyrex heating jugs. So doing the math the total volume I cook for the thicker base is 60% of 92g plus a further 30g which is 86g and for the 5mm top layer its 40% of 92g plus 30g which is only 67g.

The material that remains in the plastic jug along with soft plastics that have been damaged etc can be added to the materials your cooking up for new soft plastics but I recommend that you restrict that to only around 1/3 of the material your cooking up ... the remaining part of the material being cooked up is of course plastersol.

Plastersol liquid soft plastic comes in soft, medium and hard forms and for these soft plastics I use only the hard form.

A
  1. Make sure that there is no residue left over in or on the moulds from previous pours.
  2. Wipe the inside of the mould/s out with a clean tissue or some paper towel to ensure that there is no old petroleum jelly left in the mould / moulds from the previous pours.
  3. Using a stiff 5mm paint brush apply a thin coat of new petroleum jelly on the inside surfaces of the mould / moulds around both the paddle tail and head area of the mould / moulds.
mould-a

 

B
  1. Set the moulds up in your pouring area. My pouring area is the top of the microwave as I like the pouring area to be close by and elevated so I have clear vision as I fill the moulds.
mould-b

 

C
  1. Put your empty pyrex jug on the scales and zero the scales.
mould-c

 

D
  1. Put any finely chopped up soft plastic your going to use in the mix into the pyrex jug. Don't forget to keep these solids below 1/3 of the total mix your preparing.
mould-d

 

E
  1. Add liquid soft plastic plastisol to the jug bringing the total weight of the content up to 86g if its the base mixture you preparing and 67g if its the top mixture your preparing.
mould-e

 

F
  1. Prepare the mixture for the top part of the soft plastic using the same process as above.
  2. When you have both mixtures prepared its time to cook them up in the microwave.
  3. Start with the larger volume and give that 30 seconds in the microwave. Take that out and then cook the top coat material for just 20 seconds.
  4. Continue swapping between the two pyrex jugs of soft plastics progressively dropping the cook times down to as little as just 5 seconds just to maintain the heat.
  5. It takes a little practice but the plan is to have both volumes of the mixture ready to pour at the same time.
mould-f

 

G
  1. Put the the pyrex jug of 67g cooked material in the relatively warm microwave so that it doesn't cool down too much .
  2. Take the 86g jug of the bottom half of the soft plastic material and starting at the tail of the mould pour the molten cooked material into the first mould stopping around 7mm from the top of the mould (I have a line drawn 7mm down from the top inside of my moulds to help in this step).
  3. Once that is done move onto the second mould doing the same.
mould-g

 

H
  1. Give the second pyrex jug 67g of molten soft plastic which is still in the microwave just a 5 -10 second burst in the microwave to ensure it's still molten.
  2. Take the 67g jug of the top part of the soft plastic material and starting at the tail of the mould pour the molten cooked material into the first mould filling the mould to the top.
  3. Once that is done move onto the second mould doing the same.
  4. It's important that the time between pouring the base material and the top material into the mould is only 30 seconds or so as if it's too short the two materials will mix together and if its too long the two materials will not fuse together.
  5. Leave the full moulds sitting on the level top surface of the microwave for just a few minutes until the mixtures go off enough not to visibly move in the moulds and transfer the full moulds to another level surface in the freezer.
mould-h

 

I
  1. After 10 minutes in the freezer take the moulds out of the freezer starting at the front of the soft plastic progressively worry each soft plastic out of their respective mould.
mould-i

 

J
  1. Tidy up any loose edges on the soft plastics with sharp straight edge scissors.
mould-j

 

K
  1. Lay the soft plastics on a disposable flat timber surface.
  2. Using a kitchen burner use the flame to just melt the skin of each soft plastics to restore the gloss finish.
mould-m

 

L
  1. Attach stick on eyes to each soft plastics.

mould-n

 

M
  1. Cook up a small batch of clear soft plastic and when that is mounted dip the heads of the soft plastics in the molten plastersol so that the soft plastic covers the head of the soft plastic back to just behind the eyes.
20210922_075050

 

Alpha Gar – open/top pour soft plastic

These are big soft plastics for big barra. I make them in just 6 colours and fish them in Awoonga Dam which is of course a freshwater impoundment. I also fish them in coastal barra waters including Gladstone Harbor and the Narrows.

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