Species

Soft plastic -grub plastersol based

This is the only grub soft plastic that I carry and I fish it with confidence in those very quiet times when we can see the fish on the sounder but they are not interested.

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Check list – lake barra outings

One of my favourite past times is dusk and night fishing for big barramundi in Lake Awoonga. To be successful in the dark it's important to have the right gear at hand and knowing where each item is.

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Make a soft plastic … catch a barra

These 5 barra above are all over a meter and have been caught in Lake Awoonga over the last 5 weeks on soft plastics that I rigged up in my own very personal way on soft plastics I poured myself in moulds for top pour soft plastics that I finessed and made myself.

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Soft plastic hand pouring

Top pour hammer variant

Process:

In the example below I am making two 46g two layered soft plastics. So in this case that will take 92g of material. The bottom layer is deeper and will use about 60% of that and the top layer is only about 7mm thick so it will use only the remaining 40 % of material. For each colour I also add about 30g of extra of material to account for the material that will not pour out of the pyrex heating jugs. So doing the math the total volume I cook for the thicker base is 60% of 92g plus a further 30g which is 86g and for the 5mm top layer its 40% of 92g plus 30g which is only 67g.

The material that remains in the plastic jug along with soft plastics that have been damaged etc can be added to the materials your cooking up for new soft plastics but I recommend that you restrict that to only around 1/3 of the material your cooking up ... the remaining part of the material being cooked up is of course plastersol.

Plastersol liquid soft plastic comes in soft, medium and hard forms and for these soft plastics I use only the hard form.

A
  1. Make sure that there is no residue left over in or on the moulds from previous pours.
  2. Wipe the inside of the mould/s out with a clean tissue or some paper towel to ensure that there is no old petroleum jelly left in the mould / moulds from the previous pours.
  3. Using a stiff 5mm paint brush apply a thin coat of new petroleum jelly on the inside surfaces of the mould / moulds around both the paddle tail and head area of the mould / moulds.
mould-a

 

B
  1. Set the moulds up in your pouring area. My pouring area is the top of the microwave as I like the pouring area to be close by and elevated so I have clear vision as I fill the moulds.
mould-b

 

C
  1. Put your empty pyrex jug on the scales and zero the scales.
mould-c

 

D
  1. Put any finely chopped up soft plastic your going to use in the mix into the pyrex jug. Don't forget to keep these solids below 1/3 of the total mix your preparing.
mould-d

 

E
  1. Add liquid soft plastic plastisol to the jug bringing the total weight of the content up to 86g if its the base mixture you preparing and 67g if its the top mixture your preparing.
mould-e

 

F
  1. Prepare the mixture for the top part of the soft plastic using the same process as above.
  2. When you have both mixtures prepared its time to cook them up in the microwave.
  3. Start with the larger volume and give that 30 seconds in the microwave. Take that out and then cook the top coat material for just 20 seconds.
  4. Continue swapping between the two pyrex jugs of soft plastics progressively dropping the cook times down to as little as just 5 seconds just to maintain the heat.
  5. It takes a little practice but the plan is to have both volumes of the mixture ready to pour at the same time.
mould-f

 

G
  1. Put the the pyrex jug of 67g cooked material in the relatively warm microwave so that it doesn't cool down too much .
  2. Take the 86g jug of the bottom half of the soft plastic material and starting at the tail of the mould pour the molten cooked material into the first mould stopping around 7mm from the top of the mould (I have a line drawn 7mm down from the top inside of my moulds to help in this step).
  3. Once that is done move onto the second mould doing the same.
mould-g

 

H
  1. Give the second pyrex jug 67g of molten soft plastic which is still in the microwave just a 5 -10 second burst in the microwave to ensure it's still molten.
  2. Take the 67g jug of the top part of the soft plastic material and starting at the tail of the mould pour the molten cooked material into the first mould filling the mould to the top.
  3. Once that is done move onto the second mould doing the same.
  4. It's important that the time between pouring the base material and the top material into the mould is only 30 seconds or so as if it's too short the two materials will mix together and if its too long the two materials will not fuse together.
  5. Leave the full moulds sitting on the level top surface of the microwave for just a few minutes until the mixtures go off enough not to visibly move in the moulds and transfer the full moulds to another level surface in the freezer.
mould-h

 

I
  1. After 10 minutes in the freezer take the moulds out of the freezer starting at the front of the soft plastic progressively worry each soft plastic out of their respective mould.
mould-i

 

J
  1. Tidy up any loose edges on the soft plastics with sharp straight edge scissors.
mould-j

 

K
  1. Lay the soft plastics on a disposable flat timber surface.
  2. Using a kitchen burner use the flame to just melt the skin of each soft plastics to restore the gloss finish.
mould-m

 

L
  1. Attach stick on eyes to each soft plastics.

mould-n

 

M
  1. Cook up a small batch of clear soft plastic and when that is mounted dip the heads of the soft plastics in the molten plastersol so that the soft plastic covers the head of the soft plastic back to just behind the eyes.
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Z Man DieZel MinnowZ – 7″

Barra love big baits and this softy is getting up there. This is one of may favorite baits for low light or in dirty water conditions

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BFR Modular fly reels

In about 2000 I was lucky enough to stumble onto BFR75 Modular reels and have been using them ever since. BFR stands for "British Fly Reels" but sice about 2004 these reels have been made in China. Progressivly over time I have added to my collection of these reels and I now have 9 separate reels in service. Each reel came with three modular spools and on top of that I have purchased a further 20 modular spools (they were as cheap as chips). Currently I have 32 different lines loaded on these modular spools and each is interchangeable on all 9 reels giving me fantastic flexibility.

I am still using my first English manufactured reels and the spools included in that first purchase. The subsequent 7 additional reels and extra spools that I have progressively purchased over the years with the last two in 2014 (that's right these reels and spools are still available unchanged from those I purchased in 2000) have been manufactured in China but are equal in quality and of course, not just the modular spools, all components of the English and Chinese manufactured reels reels are interchangeable.

These reels have all stood up to the wear and tear of more fresh and salt water fly fishing than most reels ever have the luck to endure. I have used them in my guiding business and they have been bumped, dropped and immersed repeatedly in saltwater and fresh water and still are a pleasure to use. As the name implies ie "BFR75" are designed for lines from #7 weight down to #5 weight. I use these reels for all my fly fishing from #8 weight down to #3 weight and in every case they are more than up to the task. They are ideal for my #3 weight 11 foot river fly rods as they balance out the weight of the longer rods making fishing "French" leader or "Czech" styles much easier and at the other end of the scale they still have arbors with a large circumference to carry #8 weight lines and over a 100 meters of backing. The drags on these reels do not apply much resistance but they are more than adequate. To this day I have never encounted a fish that I have not been able to handle witha combination of the drag and a little palming of the modular spool.

Each modular spool has an indented 10mm flat spots at each of the cardinal points where, using permanent marker, I identify the line weight (eg. #6 or #3 weight etc) and line type (eg "V" for type five sink or "F" for floating etc) and manufactures (eg. "SA" for Scientific Anglers or "R" for Rio) and finally a spool number (eg. 1 through to 32 currently so that I can account for all my lines)... avoids heaps of confusion.

Jackall Squirrel

Jackall Squirrel lures are all Hank tuned and consequently they come out of the box already tricked up with hardware suitable for barra. The original 79mm version swim off the cast at around 3 meters and a little deeper on the troll and come in a version including rattles and a silent version. In late 2020 a 115mm version which swims at 4 meters off the cast was introduced ... that is not yet available in a silent version. They are a very versatile lures and respond well to all the normal retrieve techniques and for me in any lure session it would be unusual for these lures not to get a swim.

  • Jackall Squirrel HL Champagne Tiger Hank Tuned DD SQ79SP
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  • Jackall Squirrel HL Ukoko Vision Wakasagi Hank Tuned SDD SQ79SP
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  • Jackall Squirrel HL Ukoko Vision Sardine Hank Tuned SDD SQ79SP
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  • Jackall Squirrel - TR shad
Jackle squirrel (2)

Jackall Super Squirrel 115

Released in 2020 ... they come out of the box already tricked up with hardware suitable for barra. The super Squirrel swims at 4 meters and is currently only available in a silent version.

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Storm Thunder barra

This colour is called Olive Scale and it has a diving depth of only 1-2 meters. This fills a gap in my hard body lure box for a relatively shallow diving lure in natural colours for use around structure and weed banks and weed bombies.

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BOMBER LONG A – 25A

The 25A features the trademark Bomber tight wiggle and rolling movement that creates a life-like swimming action. This is a deep swimming lure and swims at 12-15 feet on the cast and 20-25 feet on the troll.

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